Dhaulagiri Expedition

Height:8167(m)
   
Trip Duration:45 Days
   

Mount Dhaulagiri (8167m.) was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit " Dhavala means" means "White" and girl is "Mountain" The mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873; but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949.

The French mount Annapurna expedition in 1950 had permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri . A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later.

After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass.

As French Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col., The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.

Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese in 1970s, the Americans in 1973 and the Italians in 1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to the US expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition pet. It was carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it was finally eaten up in the cooking pot.

 

Another history, Mt. Dhaulagiri, the White Mountain & seventh highest mountain in the world, is an enormous Himalayan massif, located in north central Nepal. After its discovery by the western world in 1808, it replaced Ecuador's Chimborazo (20,561 ft.) as the postulated highest mountain in the world. It maintained this standing for nearly 30 years, until the discovery of Kanchenjunga, which was then falsely believed to be the world's highest mountain.

Dhaulagiri's crest stretches for thirty miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks rise. Four of these summits, numbered form east to west, rise above 25,000 feet.

Trip Facts

Country: Nepal
Duration: 45 Days
Minimum Altitude: 1,300 m / 4,265 ft (Kathmandu)
Maximum Altitude: 8,167 m / 26,795 ft (Summit of Mount Dhaulagiri)
Walking Per Day: Approximately 4–7 hours (depending on altitude and terrain)
Nature: Trekking, High-Altitude Mountaineering & Full Camping Expedition
Grade: Extremely Challenging / Expedition Level
Best Season: April–May (Spring) and September–October (Autumn)

Himalayan Guides Dhaulagiri Expedition Spring 2014

Day 1

Arrival & Transfer to Hotel
Upon arrival in Kathmandu, you will be welcomed by our team and transferred to your hotel. The rest of the day is free to rest and recover from international travel.

Day 2

Expedition Preparation
This day is dedicated to expedition preparation, including equipment checks, packing, and last-minute purchases. You will meet the expedition leader and support staff to review logistics and plans.

Day 3

Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism
Today you attend the mandatory briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. All permits and official documentation are finalized, ensuring compliance with government regulations for the expedition.

Day 4

Drive to Beni & Darbang – Camping
An early morning drive takes you from Kathmandu to Beni and onward to Darbang. The journey passes through scenic hills and river valleys. Overnight camping at Darbang.

Day 5

Darbang to Baskot Village – Camping
The trek begins through terraced fields and traditional villages as you hike from Darbang to Baskot. Experience local culture and rural Himalayan life. Overnight camping.

Day 6

Baskot Village to Bagar – Camping
Continuing through forested trails and river crossings, the route leads to Bagar. The landscape gradually becomes more rugged as you move deeper into the Dhaulagiri region. Overnight camping.

Day 7

Bagar to Dovan – Camping
Today’s trek follows narrow gorges and riverside paths to Dovan. The environment becomes increasingly remote and wild. Overnight camping.

Day 8

Dovan to Pina (Forest Camp – Sallaghari) – Camping
The trail ascends through dense forests to Pina, also known as Sallaghari. This forest camp offers a quiet and isolated setting ideal for acclimatization. Overnight camping.

Day 9

Pina (Forest Camp) to Italian Base Camp – Camping
Leaving the forests behind, the trek opens into alpine terrain as you head toward the Italian Base Camp. Stunning views of surrounding peaks begin to dominate the landscape. Overnight camping.

Day 10

Italian Base Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4,740 m) – Camping
A challenging trek takes you to Dhaulagiri Base Camp, situated beneath the massive north face of Dhaulagiri. Upon arrival, the team establishes camp and prepares for the climbing phase.

Day 11 - 39

Climbing Period
This extended period is dedicated to acclimatization rotations, establishing higher camps, fixing ropes, and waiting for favorable weather windows. Climbers make multiple ascents and descents between camps before attempting the summit of Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) when conditions permit.

Day 40

Preparation for Return to Kathmandu
After completing the climbing phase, preparations are made for descent and return. Camps are organized and equipment packed for the journey back.

Day 41

Dhaulagiri Base Camp to Yak Kharka – Camping
The descent begins as you trek from Base Camp to Yak Kharka, gradually losing altitude and re-entering greener terrain. Overnight camping.

Day 42

Yak Kharka to Marpha & Jomsom – Hotel
Continue descending through alpine valleys to Marpha, famous for its apple orchards, and onward to Jomsom. Overnight stay in a hotel.

Day 43

Fly to Pokhara & Kathmandu
A scenic flight takes you from Jomsom to Pokhara, followed by a connecting flight or drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to your hotel upon arrival.

Day 44

Kathmandu (Free Day)
A leisure day in Kathmandu for rest, shopping, or optional sightseeing. A farewell dinner may be arranged to celebrate the completion of the expedition.

Day 45

Final Departure
After breakfast, you will be transferred to the international airport for your onward journey, marking the end of the Dhaulagiri Expedition.

Includes:

•         All airport-hotel – airport transport

•         Half day sightseeing in Kathmandu

•         4 (four) nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on BB basis

•         Domestic flight including all taxes

•         Excess baggage charge

•         Climbing permit fee.

•         Necessary number of porters/yak to carry load to & from base camp

•         Equipment allowance and insurance of Liaison officer

•         Personal climbing Sherpa with wages/equipment allowance/ insurance/high camps load ferry bonus

•         Cook and cook boys with their equipment allowance, wages and insurance

•         Best quality tents at Base camp with sleeping mattresses

•         Best quality dinning tent (Carpeting inside) with heater at Base Camp

•         All necessary kitchen & camping equipment at base camp and camp 2 along with table/chairs.

•         Shower facility at base camp

•         Fresh and organic food and beverages at Base Camp and imported quality high altitude food (individual packet)

•         Enough numbers of EPI gases with burner for high camps

•         Walkie-talkie and permit fee

•         Satellite phone for the emergency purpose (Personal call $ 3 per minutes)

•         Solar panel/Generator with accessories at base camp for recharging & power supply

•         Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes except the personal gears

•         Required Oxygen bottles with mask and regulator.

•         Insurance of local team members

•         Rope fixing fee

•         Ice fall fee

•         Accommodation and meal at tea house/guest house in/out to base camp

Exclusion:

·         Travel insurance (Should include the helicopter evacuation as well)

·         International air tickets

·         Nepal entry visa and Visa fee

·         Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu

·         Personal climbing equipment

·         Cost of emergency evacuation

·         Expenses of personal natures

·         Summit bonus ( $ 1500)

·         Tips

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE/FITNESS
The technical difficulty of this climb is not high, but it is physically demanding with long days and sections with a lot of exposure. The trip is ideally suited to strong, experienced climbers who want to climb the peak in its own right, or to use the trip to gain experience for higher peaks in the future. To move efficiently and enjoyably we recommend you have experience of Alpine PD+/AD routes and /or an ability to climb Scottish grade 1/ll winter routes and previous experience of altitude of at least 4800m before.

 

A TYPICAL TREKKING DAY
Starts around seven am (not a problem as it’s usual to go to bed early!) with you packing your overnight gear into a kit bag before enjoying a hearty breakfast ready to leave camp whilst it’s still fairly cool. The pace on the trek will be leisurely with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, take photos, chat to the locals and keep hydrated. Lunch is usually in a fine spot by the side of the trail and, most days, you will be arriving at our overnight camp mid afternoon ready for a well earned cup of tea. This leaves an hour or so to rest or explore before a three course evening meal. It is quite remarkable what the locals can produce in these remote circumstances.

 

WEATHER CONDITIONS
The Post and Pre monsoon conditions experienced from October into mid-December. April-May are usually very fair, dry and stable. Daytime temperatures are pleasantly warm in the valleys (20-30C) whilst cool to very cold (especially with wind chill) high on Baruntse. Night time temperatures are cold to very cold (possibly as low as minus 30C) and you should make sure you have a very warm sleeping bag (-30c), an expedition weight down jacket and good quality down mitts.

 

CATERING ARRANGEMENTS
Food on the trek and at Base Camp is excellent and designed to stimulate your appetite despite frequent altitude induced loss of appetite. Breakfast includes porridge and cereal followed by eggs (fried, boiled poached or omelettes) and either bread or chapattis with jam, honey, peanut butter etc. Lunch starts with juice and may include chips, rice, lentils, vegetables, salad, sandwiches, beans, tinned fish and tinned meat. Dessert is usually fresh/tinned fruit and tea. The evening meal always starts with soup (often with a healthy dose of garlic to aid acclimatisation) accompanied by poppadums, popcorn or prawn crackers. The main meal varies from local style – Dal Bhat (rice and lentils with an onion and vegetable sauce), Yak stew, momos etc. to western style – yak burgers, chips, pasta, even pizza! Desserts are equally appealing and include apple pie, cake, custard etc. You will not be hungry! Once on the mountain we use dehydrated meals supplemented by chocolate, muesli bars, cheese, nuts, salami, etc

 

IMPORTANT – The small print
Please note, flights to and from Lukla can be delayed due to the weather. Please be patient and bring a good book to read. If the flight is delayed overnight accommodation is included on a B&B basis. In cases of longer delays, optional helicopter flights are sometimes offered at an extra cost.

 

MISSED INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS
We allow one extra day in the itinerary for bad weather. If you are delayed longer (unusual) we can re-book your International flight but additional costs may/will be incurred. Tickets can be changed according to availability and the class of ticket, you may need to upgrade and be flexible on your return date. All additional payment would need to paid for in Kathmandu (card payments accepted).

 

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM
We employ local staff to work alongside our own group leader giving employment beyond farming. We ask that you restrict showers to those lodges that have electricity or solar power, thus reducing deforestation. Be prepared to wash using bowls of warm water or ‘wet ones’. We recommend you dispose of burnable rubbish at the lodges but take other items such as bottles and batteries back to Kathmandu. Avoid plastic bottles of water by bringing iodine tablets and a refillable bottle to drink local pumped water. Soft drinks should be purchased in glass bottles that can be recycled.

 

ALTITUDE
Our itineraries generally allow sufficient time for your body to acclimatise. The best way to avoid any problems is to do everything slowly, walk at a gentle steady pace and drink plenty of fluid. Our leader will give an appropriate briefing on arrival.

 

USEFUL TIPS
Just in case your main luggage goes missing en route, it is a good idea to wear your boots on the plane. Most other things can be replaced but comfortable, well worn-in boots are more difficult to replace easily.

 

EQUIPMENT
A detailed equipment list is provided on booking. Specialist items such as sleeping bags and down jackets can be hired or purchased.

 

BAGGAGE
For your own comfort travel light. Normally airlines restrict baggage to 20kg and the Lukla flight 15kg, but you will be wearing boots and one set of trekking clothes. Some items can be left at the hotel for your return.

 

VISAS AND PERMITS
US/UK citizens and most EU nationals can purchase Visas on arrival. All other countries should check with their local embassy. Passports must be valid for at least six months after the end date of the trip.

 

LOCAL COSTS
Most meals are inclusive, please see the key above. Individuals are responsible for drinks throughout and hotel meals which gives the flexibility to choose where you eat.

 

CURRENCY
Nepalese Rupee. UK Sterling, Euros and US Dollars can easily be changed in Kathmandu. ATM (cash machines) are available in Kathmandu.

 

TIPPING
Tipping is generally expected and part of everyday life. We generally tip our own local staff as a whole. It is also usual to put approximately 1000 rupees into the pot for the Puja or mountain blessing – a very important part of Himalayan climbing.

 

EXTENSIONS


Everest Flight
An early morning spectacular flight over Everest.

 

Chitwan Wildlife Safari (plus 4 days)
You can round off your trek with a three day wildlife safari. This includes a jeep safari, jungle walk, river canoe trip and elephant ride combined with a cultural program in search of rhino and the famous Bengal tiger.